02/15/2023 Sacred Buddhist Sak Yant Tattoo in Chiang Mai, Thailand

Today is the day that’s been highly anticipating for weeks, the day of the sak yant tattoo. In Thai “sak” means “tattoo,” while “yant” is the Thai word for yantra (a geometric diagram, or any object, used as an aid to meditation in tantric worship). These tattoos were traditionally given by Buddhist monks to warriors and people sent off to battle as a form of protection with a magical and spiritual connection.

Last year, when sharing the news of my travel plans, a well traveled coworker and friend mentioned to me that certain Buddhist monks will give people spiritual and magical tattoos, custom designed and tailored to each individual. Being the curious person that I am, I did a little research and immediately thought to myself, “YES! This sounds like something for me. Let’s do it.” After arriving in Bangkok, Thailand, I quickly resumed my research to find where I could bring this deep sak yant desire to fruition. There is monastery about 1.5 hours outside of the city with a monk who does highly esteemed sak yants. However, after doing some digging, I learned of some unnatural ingredients mixed in with the ink (as done in some traditions) and that the same needle was used on everybody. Instinctively the thought of sharing needles put an uneasiness within me, but luckily I did more research and found a company that helps coordinate and facilitate sak yants in Chiang Mai, Thailand, where we would be traveling to a couple weeks later. Where Sidewalk Ends Travel provides a guide that can translate for meaningful dialogue with the monk (seems like a pretty important part) and also ensures sanitary practices. How perfect! I let my travel companions for this part of the trip, Morgan and Joseph, know that I will be getting a sak yant tattoo. Despite getting traditional tattoos in Bangkok already, after my in-depth explanation of the significance and uniqueness of sak yants they wanted to join the experience.

After my morning of some food fuel, caffeine, and writing at the quaint Cottontree cafe close by, our guide Khun Khai and our driver picked us up from our Air BnB promptly at 11:30PM. Our guide got to learn a little about us, what we knew about sak yant tattoos, then supplemented us with a deeper understanding of sak yants and Buddhism in general. We made a quick pit stop on the way to grab our offerings (snacks and food) for Ajarn Rung, and arrived to his temple shortly after.

First, we lit incense and did a Buddhist prayer meditation at the shrine, sharing our intentions with the spirits. To me, Buddhism and spirituality come hand-in-hand, but many Buddhist people have strong beliefs in spirits. Next, we individually went into the temple and spoke to the monk. Typically this is a one way conversation, where the Ajarn doesn’t ask questions and is only given the information that you share. Different monks have a different process. Some will choose a design and meaning for you based off reading your aura. Not here. By guidance of our guide, I told the Ajarn Rung about myself, what I live for, what I’m passionate about, how I want to be of service to people, and shared my intention and desired protection for the sak yant. We were also instructed to share any designs, symbols, or shapes that we are drawn to as a way for Ajarn Rung to get additional insight. I didn’t want to deviate from the Ajarn Rung’s artistic vision or try to steer the sak yant in a specific direction, but I did mention that while spending my time in Thailand, I’ve become very fond of Hanuman, the Thai monkey God of the Thailand National “Epic” story, Ramakien. I asked Ajarn Rung to consider my likeness of Hanuman, secondary and supplementary to all of our previous dialogue regarding intention and protection. To my pleasant surprise, Ajarn Rung confirmed the symbology and traits of Hanuman align very well with the words I had said. The guide then told me that there would need to be a supplementary donation for the size, complexity, and time it would take to complete it. I gladly accepted. He also warned of the considerable amount of pain that would come to a sak yant of this size and was hesitant to proceed. It took a little convincing from the guide and I, but we persuaded him that I could manage the pain and he came around.

Since my design was a bit more complex and intricate, Morgan and Joseph got their tattoos first. They said the pain was worse than needle gun tattoos but not unbearable, and thankfully they only took about 5 minutes each. I was immediately impressed with the quality of work from Ajarn Rung with both of their tattoos. My excitement piqued.

When it became my turn, Ajarn Rung flipped through a binder full of Hanuman designs, and asked for my opinion on one. I trust his artistic vision and judgment and agreed to the design he chose. Then, he asked me where I thought for placement. I asked, “Would on my back, on the right shoulder blade be a good location?” He responded this was the location he had in mind as well. Ajarn Rung also mentioned he would customize the Hanuman to my intention as well (number of arms, wielded items), and put tailored scripture and prayers surrounding Hanuman as well. Shortly after, we got started.

The pain was noticeably stronger than during my other 4 tattoo experiences, but initially didn’t feel unbearable. It became harder to tolerate as time went on. As I took deep breaths in through my nose and out through my mouth, I clinged onto the Buddhism fundamental notions of impermanence and suffering to help keep my mental state strong. Ajarn Rung kept saying, “Don’t cry. Don’t cry.” I never felt the urge to cry or came close to tears, but after about 20 minutes of enduring the persistent and deep poking of the large needle, my body had a strange physical response I had not felt before. Either from the adrenal response or just the pain alone, I felt strangely light headed and nauseous. I was more concerned with not passing out than I was crying. I considered asking for a break to stand up and get water, but chose to power through and just push forward.

35 minutes after starting, I felt the sweet sensation of a sanitizing wipe sweeping my raw skin, followed by prayer and blessings from Ajarn Rung. Our guide took a photo to show me the finished artwork, and what a work of art it is! I was so very impressed with the outcome and it exceeded my highest hopes. Apart from the baseline Hanuman design he chose and showed me, I had no idea how the rest would turn out. The element of surprise definitely contributed to my love of it. I also laughed at how red and irritated the entire area surrounding the ink was.

Ajarn Rung, our guide, and I then had about a 10 minute conversation and Q&A about the specifics he chose and the meaning surrounding my tattoo. While I normally am an open book and have the tendency to overshare, I’m choosing to keep the true meanings of the tattoo to myself for now, as is done traditionally by Thai people with sak yants. Our guide says Thai people don’t talk about their sak yant’s meanings because it’s their own personal strengths, blessings, power, magic, and protection. If the wrong people know, they can use it to your disadvantage and take away from the sak yants power. Of course I hold high respect for the Thai’s traditions and customs.

Once I truly understood all of the meanings and intricacies of my new sak yant, our group made our offering to Ajarn Rung, we received blessed bracelets he tied on our wrists (my third one now; triple blessed), and he splashed us with holy water. We then made our final bow and said our final thank you’s (in Thai), then left his temple. We then went to a spot for lunch (included with our tour) and discussed our tattoos, Buddhism, and other fascinating topics with our guide over Kao Soi. Our final stop on the tour was to an amulet market nearby, which was optional but we elected to do. There were many antique and unique amulets, jewelry pieces, and trinkets here. Afterwards, we were dropped off at our Air BnB and said goodbye to our fantastic guide for an unforgettable experience.

Despite the discomfort and physical pain of the tattooing itself, I would do it all again 100% and wouldn’t be surprised if I get another sak yant in the future. I’m grateful to Ajarn Rung for blessing us with his time and craft, for Where Sidewalk Ends travel company for making it such an organized, simple, and confident experience, and for our guide Khun Khai.

Later that evening, we watched a Ramakien adaptation on YouTube. This version was English dubbed animations of the 600+ murals within the walls of Wat Prakeaw (Temple of the Emerald Buddha) in Bangkok, which I had seen during a visit in weeks prior. It was fulfilling and satisfying to see the spirit and actions of Hanuman in the story to sink further into the new ink sinking into my back.