Yala Kharka Base Camp (4,800m) to Yala Peak (5,700m): Duration: 3h36min. Distance: 3.5mi (5.6km). Vertical Elevation Gain: 2,529ft (771m).
Yala Peak (5,700m) to Yala Kharka Base Camp (4,800m): Duration: 2h34min. Distance 3.0mi (4.8km). Vertical Elevation Gain: 88ft (27m).
Yala Kharka Base Camp (4,800m) to Kyangjin Kharka (3,890m): Duration 1h52min. Distance 4.1mi (6.6km). Vertical Elevation Gain: 151ft (46m).
Note: Trek stats sourced from Apple Watch are cumulative elevation increase and does not take into account elevation decreases.
Today’s the big day, the day I summit Yala Peak. It’s funny how this entire trek started as just an idea of words being thrown out there back in December of last year (2022) by my brother-in-law Tom. Now, over 3 months later and thousands of miles away, here I am in Nepal about to summit a Himalayan mountain for my first trekking experience. Along my journey to get to this point, specifically along the trek, many people have asked me, “Why Yala Peak?” All I can respond with is the simple truth, “Oh because my brother told me about it, and he’s the outdoors adventurous type.” I could tell some people were expecting for more in an answer, but that’s really all there is to it. Of course I did extensive research for about 2 minutes before committing to it, and some planning was required. Still, as soon as he planted the seed in my mind, I was all in.
Although sleeping in a tent around 4,800m in elevation, my nested body inside a double cocoon of sleeping bags felt the least cold since the start of my trek. Despite my warmth and coziness, my climbing guide Norbu and I woke up at 3:30AM to prepare for our early morning departure. I had a wholesome camping breakfast of four pieces of white bread with some black Nepali tea. Right before we left, while I was outside brushing my teeth, I noticed a stunning sky sprinkled with stars and a clearly visible Milky Way. As if the most massive mountain range in the entire world lining the entire trek wasn’t already enough, the star gazing beat any I had ever seen. Around 4:30AM, we set off. It was cold, with temperatures coming in around a chilling 5 degrees Fahrenheit (-15 Celsius). It didn’t take long for all feeling in my toes to disappear. Despite the starlit sky, there was also a dense darkness. It was so dark, we had to hike the first hour by flashlight, until the first rays from the coming sunrise were able to light the way. Once we were able to ditch the flashlights, the views were absolutely magnificent. Beautiful spectrums of streaking colors were outlining mountain silhouettes in every direction. I took in the views as much as possible on breaks, but the rigorous trail made it dangerous to take in surroundings while moving. What started as a relatively stable hill with large rocks scattered throughout turned into steep hills of only gravel and large rocks. Then, the rocky hills turned into slippery snow covered hills, with loose gravel hiding intermittently underneath.
As we got closer to Yala Peak, the path became increasingly difficult. Before we were hiking, but now came time to climb. I handed Norbu my hiking stick so I could free both hands and use all 4 limbs to climb up towards the top. The elevation was increasing at a faster pace as well, making breathing more challenging than I had ever experienced before. Many breaks were needed as we got close to the top, building anticipation. Slowly and steadily, we climbed our way towards the top. Still, no technical climbing gear was needed.
After months of planning, nearly a week of trekking about 35 miles (56km) and 4,200m (13,780ft / 2.61mi) of elevation, I reached the peak! How did it feel? “On top of the world,” is accurate, but also too easy. I can describe the feeling as elation from elevation, euphoria, satisfaction in every ounce of my being, a flooding of endorphins, a sense of achievement, accomplishment, and pride, and disbelief in the astonishing sights that were before my eyes. The intense runners high I felt after completing my first marathon back in October 2021 was comparable feeling. Although this time, unlike the marathon, I was at the highest point I’ve ever reached in the world, and surrounded by the most stunning views I’ve ever seen. We were very fortunate with clear visibility of a cloudless sky and the stillness of a windless atmosphere. I can honestly say the views were breathtaking, because at around 5,700m above sea level, it was difficult to breathe. I did my best to capture the beauty surrounding me from every angle, but pictures never do it justice. I think there’s beauty to that. After I put my phone away, I tried impressing mental photos deep into my memory. Norbu and I let out some howls, then we tied Buddhist blessing banners to the flag pole to join others left from previous peakers. These flags were the same that lined every trail and village since our trek began: blue, white, red, green, and yellow, repeated. Each color correlates to a different Sanskrit character, and all 5 in combination is a powerful and revered Buddhist mantra prayer, Om Ma Ni Padme Hum. I also secured a thin, white cloth blessed by a monk to our flags. This was gifted to me from Joseph and Morgan a few days prior when we had dinner in Kathmandu. Between the the six monk blessed bracelets, monk blessed holy water, and most of all, monk given and blessed Sak Yant tattoo I’ve received while traveling Asia, I felt there was such an abundance of blessed tangible items in my possession. I thought, “Perhaps if I can leave this blessed white cloth atop Yala Peak, the blessings can be transmitted out and shared with others.” Besides, I’m fortunate and full of gratitude for life’s many blessings that extend far beyond a few items aforementioned. Additionally, I think it’s a healthy practice of detachment from materials to give possessions away, especially something with meaning. Traveling has shown me the beauty and simplicity of minimalism and how little we truly need.
Sometimes sacrifices must be made and personal triumphs or achievements come at a cost. Until now, I remained perfectly healthy and full of energy throughout the trek. It wasn’t until atop Yala Peak that the altitude had finally decided to make its presence known to my body. An altitude headache began while I atop the summit, which wasn’t ideal. Yet, I’m thankful that it held off until the very highest point I would reach and didn’t come sooner. Despite the headache, I wanted to stay up there for hours. It had taken a considerable amount of planning, time, and money just to get to Nepal, not to mention the 6 demanding days to move from Kathmandu to Yala Peak. After about 45 minutes, Norbu told me it was time to make our descent. With mixed emotions of triumph, achievement, and difficulty letting go of the peak, we packed our bags and started our climb down. Tes (trekking guide) and Yuhan (porter) would be waiting for us at base camp. “I’ll be back. I have to come back. I need to come back. This is the first of many Nepal treks in my future,” I thought securely.
Norbu and I equipped our crampons for the descent. While the slippery snow and sliding gravel wasn’t easy on the ascent, it would prove far more treacherous on our way down. Carefully and cautiously we climbed down from the peak, then continued towards base camp. Ice, snow, gravel, or rocks, all the terrain had us slipping and sliding. Thankfully neither of us fell or suffered any injuries as we made it towards more stable ground and removed our crampons. Breathing also became easier as our elevation declined. Eventually, we made it to base camp, where Tes and Yuhan were waiting for us. This was the first break I had from being around these two in over 5 days, yet I was excited to see them and share my experience with them.
We were to have a quick lunch of noodle soup before packing up camp and heading back towards Kyangjin Kharka Village. Norbu was in the tent, beginning to cook the soup. I started packing my bag and looked for my bottle of blessed holy water I received a couple weeks earlier from a monk in Ubud, Bali, Indonesia. It wasn’t there. I asked the group if anyone had seen it. Tes went to the tent, then returned with the empty bottle. The empty bottle without label and marked with specific symbols and my name on the side. This was clearly a special bottle, the bottle that had holy water in it. Norbu had used up the entire supply of water in the bottle to cook with after taking it from my bag without asking me. Tes apologized to me twice, but Norbu didn’t even offer an apology.
I was furious. It was an honest mistake, sure, but taking something that’s not yours out from a bag without asking is just wrong. Norbu not offering an apology after realizing its significance to me had me fuming. The temperatures were freezing, but I felt myself steaming. We were surrounded by pure white snow and mountains, but all I could see was red. Instead of saying something I’d regret or making a scene, I didn’t say a word and just sat with my anger. I felt it and pondered it, without force or attempt to control it. The four of us moved at a solid pace back towards the village. Still silent and with frustration filling my feelings, I finished my audiobook Into the Wild on the walk back. The air became less thin, the ground became more stable, and the path became easier. I took deeper and deeper breaths as elevation allowed. We only made two quick stops for rest along the way. During the second rest, we saw the same herd of mountain goats we saw the day before. I still kept silent.
Around two and half hours later, we approached the village. By this time, I had calmed down. I realized that the holy water was significant to me because I had maintained the ritual and practice given to me three times per day since it was given to me. While it’s impossible to say with absolute certainty from a scientific standpoint whether holy water from any source has special properties or not, what made it important to me was the belief it was important. I had given meaning and put belief into it, therein lies its significance. If I maintain this belief and rehearse the ritual with any water, whether blessed and from a monk or not, it should serve the same purpose. I’m glad I was able to come to this realization and absolve my anger without acting out of frustration or saying something I would later regret.
When we arrived in village, we made a stop at Norbu’s house. I ordered a round of four celebratory beers for us, before adjusting the order to two beers and two cokes (Norbu and Yuhan don’t drink alcohol). This was my first taste of alcohol in over a week I realized, and honestly I didn’t even think of it much. I wasn’t going to let my altitude headache stop me from enjoying a deserved cold celebratory brew. I bought a couple souvenirs from Norbu’s shop, gave him a thank you tip, and took my beer to go. I strategically saved several sips in order to have one of my beloved shower beers. A hot shower and a cold beer, sounds like such harmonious balance that would make even the Buddha proud. The best part about drinking beer in the Himalayan Mountains? While yes it’s true, alcohol’s effects are stronger in higher elevation, this isn’t what I’m referring to. The best part about drinking a cold beer in the Himalayan Mountains of Nepal is that it’ll never get warm.
Later, I began journaling the days events while fresh in mind in the dining hall until dinner. Though challenging, I did my best to put words behind the experience with as much detail and imagery as possible. While eating my nutritious meal of cheese pasta, fried momo dumplings, and marble cake dessert, I began chatting with a friendly Australian family of four at the nearby table. They were playing a card game called 500 that I recall playing with my family when I was younger. Due to the 3:30AM wake up earlier that morning, I planned on going immediately to bed following dinner. The social side of me couldn’t resist the enjoyable engagement with this family. We chatted for hours about an array of topics from travel and trekking to sports and different national education systems. Eventually exhaustion embraced me, and I made way to bed to allow my body recover from what will always be an unforgettable day.