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03/27/2023 Himalaya Trekking Day 3: Kyanjin Gompa (3,330m) in Himalayas, Nepal

Day's Trek Stats

Thangsyap (3,190m) to Kyanjin Gompa (3,330m) Duration: 2h10min. Distance: 3.5mi (5.6km). Vertical Elevation Gain: 1,374ft (419m).

Note: Trek stats sourced from Apple Watch are cumulative elevation increase and does not take into account elevation decreases.

Morning Movement

Bundled up in my thermal base layers, wool socks, fleece, downs jacket, and wool beanie, I slept in until my 7:00AM alarm rang. It was difficult to muster the will to get out of my moderately warm bed, so I began a countdown from three and committed to being on my two feet after one. Immediately I began yoga in attempt to use the body movement for warmth. Afterwards, I packed my backpack and daypack, ate breakfast of a chocolate pancake, vegetable omelette, and tea, and said thank you and farewell to the gracious hosts of the Thangsyap Tibetan Guest House. It was about 9:00AM when my guide Tes said, “Jam Jam,” signaling it was time to hit the trail.

Trailside Tragedy

Shortly after embarking, we saw more wildlife including several yak and a large eagle, flying majestically through the mountain valley. We continued onward, making our way into Langtang Village. Along the way, there was a stone Buddhist memorial in the middle of the trail. I had noticed that the trail seemed to cut through remnants of a landslide, marked by many warning signs. Tes mentioned that 8 years ago, there was a massive avalanche that triggered a landslide that destroyed several villages and killed 1,300 people. Such a terrible tragedy. A reminder that Mother Nature, while beautiful and full of wonder, can also be a cause of destruction.

Langtang

We continued further into Langtang, with Big Langtang peak (7,700m on our left. I had been in absolute awe of the breathtaking views since embarking on the trek two days prior, yet somehow they continue to get even better yet. My audiobook “Born To Run” had just finished when we were due for a break. It was about 10:45AM when we took a short rest in a Langtang village for tea and cookies. I appreciated a little warmth from tea as the mountain air became more brisk as we increased elevation, and I threw on additional layers. About 20 minutes later, “Jam Jam.”

Kyanjin Gompa

It was only 30 minutes later that we arrived at Kyanjin Gompa. We had reached our village destination for the remainder of the day by 11:15AM, surprisingly early. The trekking trio of Tes, Travis, and Yuhan moved at a strong pace. Trekking an additional 3 hours more than what the itinerary called for yesterday provided us ample time for relaxing today. I dropped my bags off in the room I would be staying, washed and hung some worn clothes, and enjoyed lunch consisting of more tea, pasta with vegetables and cheese, and mixed momo (dumplings). With a full belly and time on my hands, I laid down for a nice mid-day nap.

Following the nap, I enjoyed some tea while chatting with a German couple who were on their way down. They had gone as far as Kyanjin Kharka, where we would be trekking to tomorrow. Then, Tes and I took a short walk up towards the mountains to the original Langtang village. This is the only surviving village in the area from the avalanche and landslide years prior. Here, the village elders lived in their traditional stone huts. I noticed the use of yak droppings to seal cracks and insulate homes against harsh cold temperatures. We returned back to the area of the village where we would stay, where I did a quick workout before taking a hot shower. When I put on clean clothes and stepped outside, I was delighted to see snowfall trickling down through the valleys and mountains, covering everything in sight.

Early Evening

I returned to the homestay dining hall, where I did some journaling for a little while until I couldn’t resist playing with the local village kids. The older girl, maybe age 5, was dancing along to videos she streamed on her mom’s phone while the younger girl, age 2, couldn’t get enough of being in the spotlight, making selfie videos on my phone. For dinner, I had a vegetarian pizza to mix it up, served with mint tea. Shortly after dinner, I returned to my room and crashed around 8:00PM again. I haven’t had this early of a bedtime regiment, let alone this consistent of one, since perhaps grade school. For me, the fresh, thin, mountain air at elevation paired with outdoor activity is naturally met with early, quality, and lengthy sleep.

Note: Trek stats sourced from Apple Watch and are approximations. Village elevations sourced from village signs, villagers, or guides.